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October 11, 2010

The Paris collections wrapped up last week leaving us with a lot to nibble on for the upcoming season. The two major contrasting trends of Modern Minimalism and Colorful 70’s interpretations continued with additional ideas of Menswear, Femininity and Architectural utility.  Paris presented us with the best of the best with spectacular performances by all of our favorites.

It is always difficult to narrow down to only five as there are so many that deserve reference.  With that being said, The Sche Report picks are based on modernity, influential direction, design sensibility and chic factor.


Pheobe Philo continued her direction of finely crafted minimalism and reinforced the theme with a bit of color and updated silhouettes for Spring.  The tailoring from last season was seen but loosened up a bit with softer trousers and silk prints.  Amazing leather was seen in boxy styles along with collarless shirts and self belted straight skirts. The palette of blue, orange, red and green was combined with white and creme and interpreted in bold stripes.  A modern nomadic influence was seen in her amazing ponchos and textural knits.  Philo continues to wow us with her silhouettes and tailoring and is still way ahead of the curve in the new take on Minimalism.

To view the entire collection, go here.

Visit Celine’s website.


For Spring, Van Noten’s muse was “a handsome woman” which he interpreted by designing several versions of a men’s button-up shirt.  The classic shirt was oversized and reworked into sheer silks, tied together to create a skirt, worn over leggings and under oversized tuxedo blazers, and tucked into high-waisted pencil skirts.  His lightweight oversized trousers were fabulous offering versions in denim and ombre dyes as well as classic white.  It wouldn’t be Dries without a smattering of beautiful florals which this time he borrowed from Chinese ceramics with ombre degrade’ effects inspired by the work of Belgian artist Jef Verheyen.  Never trying too hard, Dries once again proved his leadership in wearable, directional clothing with this collection.

To view the entire collection, go here.

Visit Dries Van Noten’s website.


Paris is often a place where designers takes risks, but it is also pleasant to see a risk-taker hitting the sweet balance of creativity and practicality. Haider Ackermann’s signature dark, intricate leather pieces were counter-balanced by gem-toned colors and sexy cutout silk dresses. He showed stunning combinations of separates including leather pants, robes, pleated long skirts and motorcycle jackets. Ackermann’s leather jackets were once again front and center with signature belted elements heavily employed. What is new is definitely the color, the more languid silhouette, and the amazingly wearable tuxedo jackets with pops of color here and there. Everything was done with intension and a sharp point of view and it is inspiring to see a designer that constantly reinterprets his signature look.

To view the entire collection, go here.

Visit Haider Ackermann website.


Maybe it was the YSL exhibit this year in Paris that had everyone channeling the legendary designer, but Stefano Pilati showed us the truest version of this iconic style.  Pilati sent out many signature styles including jumpsuits, peasant dresses, ruffles, tailored halter necklines, and many versions of le smoking.  The collection was infused with a sultry level of sex appeal with doses of skin shown here and there through open backs, transparency, shoulder cut-outs, halter tops and keyhole necklines. The shapes were straight forward and modern while still keeping the archives in check.  A white pencil skirt with a patch pocket was the perfect wave to the future while the halter neck jumpsuits were straight from the past.  With this collection, Pilati continues to show us his design sensibility while keeping his connection to the spirit of Saint Laurent.

To view the entire collection, go here.

Visit Yves Saint Laurent’s website.


How does Karl Lagerfeld do it? How does “Uncle Karl” constantly reinvent Chanel and all of its essentials? The answer might stay a secret forever, but the fact is that Chanel, season after season, continues to be THE show to watch.  This time around, Karl sent out a plethora of looks including moth-eaten tweed, precise laser cut-outs in denim, feathered embroidery, painterly chiffon florals, and his usual collage of jewels, lace and sequins.  The biggest standout and definitely the most modern, was his new interpretation on the tweed suit.  For Spring, the Chanel girl will be donning a 3 -piece short suit including hot pants, jacket and a vest layered over the jacket.  This look was seen in many versions, some worn with crystal encrusted moto boots  and others paired with transparency and florals.  The entire collection was fresh, young, and absolutely covetable. Other strong items included a bold yellow tweed skirt suit, transparent chiffon florals, and a group of gorgeous black feather dresses. From concept, to set design, casting, and execution, Chanel once again leads the industry.

To view the entire collection, go here.

Visit Chanel’s website.

3 Comments leave one →
  1. z.augustine permalink
    October 13, 2010 12:35 pm

    MS – Agreed on all points and perspectives – your selects are fantastic however I do think they played in the same zone – I would have loved a little Balmain in the mix to challenge all the tailoring. Still your #1 fan. Zx


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