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September 24, 2010

It is always a big switch in aesthetics from NYC to London.  You never know what you are going to get in London and this time proved to be the same.  London’s season was a bit lackluster with many designers missing the mark on wearable, beautiful clothes. With that being said, the biggest difference in NYC and London was the Brits use of color.  London designers pushed the color palette offering a smattering of neons, sherberts and brights all done up with a feminine slant.  Our picks from London picked up where Proenza Schouler left off at the close of NYC Fashion Week:  Ladylike femininity with an edge.

The Sche Report picked our top 5 based on ingenuity, vision and wearability (something that London doesn’t completely grasp).


Referencing postcard beauties from the 40’s and 50’s, Saunders channeled the sporty feminine aesthetic of Claire McCardell for his fresh point of view on Spring 2011.  Watching his show was like a breath of fresh air, from the color combinations to the silhouettes, it was happy and bright.  Saunders is quite a colorist and his palette this time around was no joke.  Mixing orange and yellow with bright green and crisp white cotton, the sporty feminine theme rang through.  The abstract floral wallpaper print was delightful and his spray painted hemlines added a youthful edge.  Our favorite London collection, we are looking forward to more from this designer in the coming seasons.

To view the entire collection, go here.


For her runway debut, Katrantzou showed a stunning lineup of masterful digital prints mirrored after pictures pulled from Architectural Digest.  Her inspiration came from looking at 70’s photography from Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin where the subject matter was always the woman in a room.  She challenged this thought process and was inspired to “put the room on the woman, rather than the woman in the room.”  Her three dimensional printing techniques replicated different interior perspectives using trompe l’oeil techniques on her masterfully fitted bodices.  Chiffon details mirrored curtains while mini crinis echoed lampshades.  One dress featured an LA swimming pool on the top part of the dress and the night skyline from a deck on the bottom half.  If this show is any example of what is to come, we highly anticipate her future in London fashion.

To view the entire collection, go here.


“Princess Margaret on Acid” has been dubbed the look of Kane’s Spring/Summer 2011 collection.  This super sophisticated and somewhat demure collection of over the knee proper dressing was amped up and pushed to the future with his use of neons to tell the story.  Christopher has an obsession with neon and was very influenced by Camden market’s Cyberdog crew as a starting point to the collection.  His textural spin was in his flouro lace that was actually perforated leather with vinyl coating meant to look like pleather.  The silhouettes were modernized by using Yakuza(Japanese gangsters) tattoos as prints detailing them with box pleats and neon trim.  His extreme use of color and his modern vision is why Kane topped our list of London favorites.

To view the entire collection, go here.


A trend we have spotted on the runways this season in collections such as Rodarte and Louise Gray is the idea of “collage” fashion or “Fusion fashion” as some people are calling it.  This refers to the idea of mixing patterns, textures and techniques in an exaggerated or complex way to tell an artistic story.  We are loving this trend and we think that Van Der Ham has done a magical job at making this idea pretty, polished and wearable.  His clothes seem to have a bit of a split personality with one arm covered in velvet while the other carries an off the shoulder blouse with Swarovski colored crystal embroidery.  Van der Ham was influenced by Hollywood’s famous costumer Adrian and kept with one directional theme throughout the entire collection.  The candy color choices were delightful as were his color blocking and random texture combinations.  The Sche Report praises Van der Ham for thinking “outside of the box” and we know he is onto something pretty special with his “fusion fashion”.

To see the entire collection, go here.


Erdem Moralioglu referenced the Russian Ballets Russes sending out a combination of structure and flou channeling ballet costumes of the 1920’s.  His fitted bodices and flaring skirts were done up in romantic floral prints and lace topped off with Nicholas Kirkwood’s floral heels that wrapped up the legs like ballet slippers.  He made harlequin patterned patchwork with his prints and placed on shirtdresses and pants and his signature over embroidery was spectacular.  Erdem always puts out pretty looks and this season was no different, however this time around a bit of sex appeal was underlying below the surface of those magical florals.

To view the entire collection, go here.

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