ONE’S TO WATCH: PARIS
The time in the fashion calendar that we all wait for is finally here…PARIS! This is the moment when the direction for the next season culminates. The Paris shows are always the most forward in their design and presentation focusing on the highest level of artisan craftmanship. Outside of the tents, the most highly esteemed editors, buyers and stylists of the world stomp around in their best Fall items styled as if they already know what they are about to see. This is why Paris fashion is so mesmerizing. Paris gives you a key to the next year by combining what is featured on the runway to what is being worn by their elite guests.
There are too many fantastic designers in Paris to tell you to look out for, so we decided to only cover younger designers on the scene. These designers were chosen based on unique vision, craftmanship, creative direction and marketability.
1. PEDRO LOURENCO
Just 19 years old, Brazilian born Pedro Lorenco sent shockwaves through the Paris Fashion attendees last Fall with his impeccably made collection of laser cut leather with plastic detailing. It was focused, mature, and directional- and has surprised many editors whom otherwise would’ve overlooked someone at such a tender age. Lorenco is fortunate to have the support of his parents, both are designers and factory owner where Lorenco’s collection is produced. He first started designing when he was 8 years old and presented his first collection at 12 for Sao Paulo Fashion Week. He combines references from the past and the not too distant future by combining influences from Madeline Vionnet to Mario of Super Mario Bros fame. In his Fall collection, he manipulated shapes and leather in innovative and artistic ways that were refreshing to see; there are even slight comparisons to what Nicholas Ghesquiere is producing at Balenciaga. With the success of his Paris debut and a highly anticipated Spring 2011 show, we are sure to hear Pedro Lourenco’s name mentioned long into the future.
2. DAMIR DOMA
If there’s a category called “brain-y designers”, Damir Doma wouldl be included. The Croatian German-trained designer is known for drawing inspiration from identity’s multiple expressions as well as the fragile quality of the body. Those inspiration led to collections of soft, ethereal looks playing with proportions, layers, and lightness. Damir Doma honed his skills upon graduation with Raf Simons in Antwerp where his personal aesthetic got explored cumulating in the launch of his first Men’s collection in 2007. He launched his first womenswear collection this past Fall and introduced a balanced mix of voluminous coats, draped necklines, and tailored pieces in avant-garde silhouettes. The confrontation of an ever-evolving heterogeneous environment with the designer’s uncompromising ideas about fashion and arts have led to a strong and recognizable identity, which is visible throughout all the collections. Doma possesses a fresh perspective and continues a long lineage of impactful avant-garde fashion in Paris.
The Damir Doma show will be held Wednesday, September 29th @ 9pm – National Natural History Museum (Museum National d’histoire Naturelle) – www.damirdoma.com
3. THIERRY COLSON
Thierry Colson is a Paris-based fashion editor turned designer, creating the innovative label, TC. “We are a little bit tired of the fashion system,” Thierry says of his decision to design only during the winter, and roll out his collection at selected boutiques during the spring/summer season. A renowned stylist for fashion bibles such as Vogue Hommes and Numero, and consultant to fashion houses such as Hermès and Chloé, Thierry has previously travelled to India to create an all-white range of 18th-century-inspired kaftan-like dresses made of cotton. For Thierry, his sole spring/summer collection transcends seasons and fills a gap in the market that acts as a fusion of resort/loungewear, of soft cottons, pale, decorated voiles with tone-on-tone embroideries, and subtly interwoven with historical references. His understated sexy take on Parisian daywear is sure to gain recognition from the US market and Asia in seasons to come.
Visit Thierry’s website here.
4. NICOLAS ANDREAS TARALIS
When growing up in Toronto, Nicolas Andreas Taralis had an interest towards art and design from a young age. With a passion and clear determination to work in a creative field, he soon found himself in the world of fashion. After studying at Parsons in New York for two years, however, he realized that his dreams and future were much further away. Taralis has come a long way since hopping on a plane to Europe – after studying and working with some of the greatest minds in mens fashion, he has worked with Dior Homme and Cerruti, created his own label, worked on numerous projects around the world and generated somewhat of a cult following for his renowned style. Taralis showed his first season for the relaunch of his womenswear this past March for Fall 2010 where he sent out a troop of tough chic tailored pieces mixed with his famous denim all picking up where Helmut Lang left off. We are looking forward to seeing his progression from Fall to Spring 2011 and excited to see people’s reaction.
The Nicolas Andreas Taralis show will be held Tuesday, September 28th @ 7pm on Palais de Tokyo – www.nicolasandreastaralis.com
To see the complete Fall 2010 collection, go here.
5. ANTHONY VACCARELLO
Belgian-born Anthony Vaccarello rose to stardom when he won the top prize at 2006’s Hyeres award with Ann Demuelemeester presiding the jury panel. His obvious love for contrast and irony is evident throughout his collection as well as in his personal life. Counting “having the sun and rain on the same day” as one of his favorite moments, his Fall collection is also full of contrasting textures and plays with the idea of femininity as an armor. He is well on his way to further success as he boast some of the best stores in the world in his stock list such as Browns, Collete, Kirna Zabete, and Joyce. His new collection should present yet another version of his modern women who is strong and smart yet sweet and funny. Some of his style icon includes Lou Doillon and Susie Bubble.